Using a small brush of marten hair and shade for powdery eyes, draw a thick line of shade along the entire crease of the eyelid, starting at the inner edge and extending to the outer edge, forming a small triangle of shade that points to the storm and fades with the brush.
Then, with a sharp eyeliner pencil, first draw a line in your lower eyelids, starting at the outer edge, just below the eyelash line and stopping the line in the center of the lower eyelid.
Fade the line with your little finger or a piece of cotton wool. With the same pencil, draw a line across the entire upper eyelid, starting at the inner edge of the eye and continuing to the outer edge. Darken the triangle on the outer edge of the eye with more liner pencil; then fade.
With a black liner pencil, draw a line on the inside of the upper eyelid.
If your eyes are very small, you can make them look larger by drawing a line into the lower eyelid with a white pencil.
Using a small marten hair brush, apply color to the center of the eyelid.
With a marten hair brush, apply a small amount of shade to the brow bone. Push downwards, towards the shadow of the fold.
Enchine the eyelashes. Apply two coffe or black mascara layers to the upper and lower layers.
Even if you avoid another kind of cosmetics, most women use some eye makeup. Their eyes project their state of mind, express their thoughts and may even indicate their state of health, why not make them look as beautiful as possible?
The most common mistake women make is to match the color of their eye shadow with that of their eyes. The eye shadow is used to draw attention to the eyes, not to overcome them. Avoid bright shades of green, blue, turquoise or any other shades.
If you like the colors of a defined shade, opt for neutralised shades. Very colorful ones can sometimes be effective if combined with your clothes. Blue eyes can look very interesting when shaded with slate blue (is a neutralised grey with blue), reddish brown, lavender or bronze. Brown eyes can use almost any shade. The color plum or lavender not only looks beautiful with green eyes, but tends to make them greener. The navy blue and neutralized are excellent for green or light brown eyes. The slate blue shade is particularly flattering for women with gray hair.
Remember, there are no exact rules about the colors you are supposed to use. Experiment, but make sure the color of your eyes is more prominent than the shade.
I prefer the shade powder compact because it seems very easy to use. The creamy shade can be easy to apply on dry or wrinkled skin, but the powder color works just as well. You can find all the shadows you need in various shops. Revlon eye shadows are gently applied and come in a variety of colors, including the wonderful slate blue. Just make sure your powdered shadows don’t dry out. A too dry powder can irritate the skin and be difficult to mix. For the most natural look, avoid pearly shadows during the day, particularly if your eyelids have wrinkles.
Before using compact powdered eye makeup, apply face powder to the entire region of the eye, including your eyelashes and eyebrows, so that the eye shadow is not scratched and the color of your eyelashes and eyebrows lasts longer. Actually, I use rice powder in the eye area. This dry, fine powder is the perfect foundation for eye makeup. It can be found in specialized Chinese import shops.
Think of the eye area as divided into three parts: the eyelid, crease, and eyebrow bone. The crease separates the eyelid from the eyebrow bone. It bends when the eye is opened, so the most intense color can be applied.
I always start by shading the fold, thus defining the shape of the eye. Then the eyeliner. As my intention is always to soften the line by fading it, I use coloured pencils or crayons, the most versatile form of eye makeup. The pencils should be soft, so that they do not pull on the soft skin of the eyelids. Before you buy them, try the pencils. If they get stuck in your hand, the same thing will happen to your eyelid. Compact powder can also be used for outlining, with a very small brush, but excess dust often makes small black spots stick to the skin and difficult to remove. Eyeliner paste is easy to use, but does not fade.
Eye liners in the form of pencils and crayons require frequent sharpening for success. Buy a pencil sharpener with two holes, one for regular size pencils and one for thick crayons. Freeze your pencils before sharpening them. Freezing hardens the color part and allows a more precise tip to be removed. If your pencils become hard over time, place the tip under hot water for a few minutes or keep it between your fingers for warmth.
When drawing the line on your lower eyelid, never extend it to the inner edge of the eye unless your eyes are too far apart. Do not be afraid to apply the eyeliner more intensely to the outer edge of the eye. After fading, this extra color will make your eyes look larger. In most cases, the upper eyelid liner should be the same color as the lower eyelid liner. Be sure to fade it well to avoid a rough line.
Women with very close eyes should outline only the outer half of each eye. Small eyes tend to look smaller when the line is too thick. If your eyes are tilted downward, slightly tilt the eyeliner up on the outer edge of the eye.
The charcoal grey color is excellent for outlining the eye, particularly during the day. Brunettes can wear black eyeliner during the day if they fade and mix well, but brown tones can give a softer appearance. Neutralised purple shades work well for day or night, especially if you incorporate the same shades into your eyelid shadow. The navy blue eyeliner complements the neutralised shades purple, charcoal and slate blue.
The inner liner defines the eye. Gently lift the eyelid with one hand until the inner edge of the eye is exposed. With the other hand, draw the inner line of the eyelid, under the eyelashes, from the outer end to the inner end. This defines the eye. I apply black inner liner to the upper eyelid in most women (except those with very close eyes), regardless of the color of their eyes or hair.
Unless your eyes are too big or bulging, it’s not a good idea to wear black eyeliner on the lower eyelid, because it can make your eyes look smaller. Instead, select a white liner pencil to create the illusion of a larger white area. Tired, red eyes will look brighter if you use a light blue inner liner. A blue pencil is also flattering in blue eyes, as long as the tone is very subtle. A light green pencil used as an inner liner will favor green or grayish green eyes. The clear lavender or pink inner liner is also a good complement for green eyes.
An important note: If you wear contact lenses, do not apply inner liner.
Once you have defined the shape of your eyes with shadow in the crease and eyeliner, it’s time to add a hint of color. Remember that the primary objective of eye shadow is to enhance them, not to draw attention to your clothes.
Even though your eyes may look brown, blue or green, the iris is actually composed of dozens of tiny dots of color. If you look at them carefully in a mirror, you can discover a rainbow you never thought existed. Many brown eyes have pinches of green, black, red and yellow, blue or green eyes may also have some lavender, purple and gray.
To highlight these intricate natural color blends, I often combine two or three shades of shadow, selecting colors that I actually see in the eye. I can use coffee and green, or pink and lavender, in blue or green eyes and slate blue in brown eyes. Although I usually avoid the green shadow in the green eyes and the blue shadow in the blue ones, women with brown eyes can use any shade. Try to combine colors from the same family in all three eye areas. For example, coffee in the crease, bronze in the eyelid and peach in the brow bone. The colors should be mixed so that there is no obvious line between them. Experiencing is fun, especially when you keep in mind that the only disaster is color excess. If you mix and fade with your fingertips or a cotton swab, the shadow of your eyes will be soft and subtle.
Before applying color to your eyelid, brush your hand to shake off excess dust. Apply color to the center and spread it across the entire eyelid, concentrating most of the color on the outer ends, the “triangle”.
If you want additional color, reapply and mix it, always brushing the first brushstroke in your hand to remove excess dust, which can cause scratches.
For sunken eyes, use a very light shadow over the entire eyelid, mixing it into the triangle area. For bulging eyes, a medium to dark shadow should be used all over the eyelid. For very close eyes, apply a clear shadow from the center of the eyelid to the inner end of the eye. During the night or in dim light, pearly eye shadow can create a bright and flattering effect. If you select iridescent or pearly loose powders, use a sponge tip applicator instead of a brush, because that way the color is applied more gently.
When placing shadow on the eyebrow bone, make sure that the full color is not more intense than the colors of the eyelid area. The pale pink shadows look wonderful, as do the peaches and other pastel colors neutralized. Try putting blushing on the brow bone; it creates a beautiful effect. A dark shadow on the brow bone can make the eyes look larger, creating the illusion of lifting the crease in the eyelid. If your eyes are bulging, a very clear shadow, or illuminating in the brow bone, it will draw attention away from the eyelids, but never wear white. Eyebrow bone shade is not always necessary, and never use so much that it distracts the eye’s attention. If the eye area is wrinkled, the eyebrow bone will appear lower and more prominent; if the illuminator is used in that case only this defect will be accentuated.